Karangasem

The main town of the Regency of Karangasem, Amlapura , was ravaged by lava during the 1963 eruption of Mouth Agung. Most of the lower area of the town was destroyed, and homeless refugees were taken into the royal palace, high on the town, for shelter and   food    

The kingdom of Karangasem, emerged during the 17^th Century, at a time when the powers of the Dewa Agung of Klungkung were at their lowest ebb. During the next two centuries Karangasem became the most powerful state in Bali, and Raja extended his power to Lombok at the turn of the 19^th Century, where he installed Balinese princes as rulers of different parts, and named his daughter as Regent. There followed a period of inglorious history of inglorious history of corruption, usury and warring in Lombok, which gave the Dutch the very opportunity they sought to intervene and add Lombok to their colonial territories.        

Despite a dishonourable reputation, the royal family retained their throne in Karangasem through cooperation with the Dutch Army in return for favours. The close European connection can be seen in the architecture of the Puri Kanginan Palace, which his a strange combination of design from Europe, China and Bali. The main building, called the "Bale London", has furniture bearing the Royal  Crest of England, Chinese wooden panelling, and a collection of antiques from Holland, all in a  traditionally styled Balinese pavilion with a large verandah.   

The late Raja, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut, took great pleasure as a young man in creating architectural landmarks, and especially loved building moats and pools. He designed a fantastic moated Water Place five kilometres south of Amlapura at the fishing village of Ujung in1921, and then 26 years later, in the last filing, bulit a rest place at rest place Tirta Gangga, a series of pools and fountains decorated by strange status. The water Place has suffered great damage from earthquakes, and despite many efforts, both local and foreign, to repair it, has almost crumbled into ruins. Tirta Gangga a little damaged during the 1963 eruption and 1979earthquakes, is still in reasonable repair and has become a popular weekend bathing spot for the public.             

The eruption 1963 simultaneously covered much of the lands of Karangasem in lava and rock, and rendered the remainder highly fertile once the volcanic ash, rich in minerals, had finally settled. The region is still highly cultivated ; that land which cannot be leveled and irrigated for rice farming is plated out in maize and fruit trees. Papaya, mandarins, durian and bananas grow in great   quantities, and there are plantations of salak, the unusual “snake-skin” fruit, on the hilly slopes of Sibetan.

Exploring the Countryside

Just prior to the bridge leading into the town of Amlapura, in a valley of solidified lava, is a road that leads inland to lower slopes of  Mount  Agung. Joining up with the Klungkung –Besakih road at Rendang, this forms an inland route through some of the most delightful scenery of the easternmost regency . The road winds through rustic little villages climbing up through the salak plantations of  Sebetan to Selat. A back road branches off from Selat through the villages of Iseh , which was chosen by the German artist Water Spies as a country retreat in 1932 . Later , Swiss painter Theo Meier lived in the same house, which was recenty rebuilt and restored by Florentine-born writer Idana Pucci . The rustic little village of Iseh commands a magnificent view of rice field terraces that stretch up towards the volcano.

Pura Besakih

Bali’s largest and most famous temple, Pura Besakih, is situated high on the slopes of Mount Agung. Established around about 1007 A.D., (see page 12), it has been regarded as the major temple on the island of  Bali, focal point of the Hindu relegion, since the 15^th Century. Each regency of Bali has its own sub –temple within the great Besakih complex, and all Balinese pay homage here. There are 18 separate sanctuaries, all belonging to the different affiliations and castle groups. The three major temples are Pura Penataran Agung, once belonging to the royal family of Klungkung, dedicated to the Supreme God  Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa, Pura Kiduling Kreteg , dedicated to Brahma , and Pura Batu Medog, dedicated to Wisnu.

Each  of these temples has a regular six monthly anniversary celebration or odalan, and on the full moon of the tenth month , “kedasa", the entire temple celebrates a visitation of the gods, "Bhatara Turun Kabeh ", and roads are packed with busloads, bemoloads, and even truckloads of  visiting worshippers bearing offerings from afar. The ceremonies last for over a week. During this period the temple is filled with magnificent offerings, and its courtyards are packed to bursting with throngs of visitors intent on prayer.

Tenganan

In the hills of Karangasem, sheltered within a secluded valley, is the walled village of Tenganan, home of secretive community of Bali Aga people, so called because they have resited outside influences for many centuries, preserving they pre-Hindu customs. The women of village weave a rare double ikat cloth, the kamben gringsing, with is supposed to have magical powers to protect the wearer, and is greatly sought after for cremation ceremonies. The process of weaving this cloth, known only in this village, can take up to five years for the completion of one piece.

Unique ceremonial customs are still practiced in Tengenan, which still maintains an archaic gamelan selunding, with its iron sound bars, to produce the melancholy melodies to which the girls dance. Once a year, during a festival known as usaba sembah, they hold a ritual tournament in which the men of the village fight each other with wads of thorned pandanus leaves, the object being to draw blood in a sacrifice to placate the evil spirits. Despite the discomfort of the protagonist, this gladiator like competition is obviously enjoyed by those involved as a chance to display their bravery and manhood.

Padang Bai

The main harbour to the east is the tiny port of  Padang Bai, place of transit to Lombok and beyond, with regular ferries and cargo vessels running service to the outlying inslands. This pearl-shaped bay is also used by international cruise ships that anchor just out around the headland, ferrying their passengers in small boats to the pier that just out into the midst of the bay. Foreign yachts often anchor in the tranquil waters of this sheltered bay, which is surrounded by tiny white coves and protected in manuscripts of Balinese history as residence of the great Hindu Priest Empu Kuturan, who is remembered for his religious teachings and reforms of village organization at the beginning of the 11th  Century.  Pura Silayukti, high above the harbour town, is suppose to have been built on the site of his former hermitage.

Candi Dasa

To the east of Padang Bai, the little beach of Candi Dasa is growing into a resort area at a rapid rate. For several kilometers along the gently curving coastline, small hotels and home stays have sprung of under the coconut palms.  The gently lapping waters and white coral-sand beaches offer an ideal stopover for visitor touring  the island, and the ideal base for exploring the regency of  Karangasem.

The Coastal Road to the North

Beyond the city of Amlapura, on the road which climbs past Tirta Gangga, it is possible to traverse the coastline all the way to the northern coast. Passing through dusty little villages where mandarin orchards  thrive in the hot weather, the road climbs over rocky volcanic outcrops, overlooking serene little beaches and shady stands of coconut palms. There're some excellent spots for scuba diving en route, Tulamben in particular, with its submerged wreck of the S.S. Liberty.

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