Klungkung

The region of Klungkung has played a most important role in Bali’s history. It was the seat of rule of Bali’s history. It was the seat of rule of Bali’s most powerful dynasty of rajas, the Dewa Agung, under whom the island was united during a glorious period of rich cultural influence. The great Japanese general, Gajah Mada,  pacified and united Bali towards the end of the 13^th Century, incorporating the is land into the Majapahit Empire. He set Raja Kapakisan,  the first Dewa Agung (“Great Deity”). To rule over the island from his court at  Samprangan , near the present town of Klungkung. Several generations later this seat of power was removed to nearby Gelgel, where it established much authority and prestige under the fourth succeeding Dewa Agung 

With the collapse of the Majapahit Empire in 1515, many thousands of javanese Hindus, priests, nobles and entire followings of soldiers, artists and artisans fled the onslaught of Islam in Java. Pledging their services to the current Dewa Agung they settled in bali, bringing fresh impetus to the already strongly hinduised culture.

The 16 th century was a golden age for Bali. Under the wise rule of Dalem Baturenggong from his court at Gelgel the island became a strongly unified kingdom, so powerful it was able to conquer and colonize both Lombok and Sumbawa. Under the auspices of the royal court the transplanted Javanese traditions of language and literature, music, dance and sculpture, took firm root. The philosophy fitted perfectly  over the beliefs and practises of the people. 

Gelgel’s period of peace and prosperity was not fated to last, however. Under the rule of waturenggong,s granson, Di Made, who misused his power to an extreme, the outlying colonies were lost, as well as much of the allegiance of the other Balinese princes. He flirted with the Dutch, and made himself so unpopular in his lifetime that his successor decided the place of Gelgel must be under a curse, and moved his entire court to a new site in Klungkung in 1686.

Although the Raja of Klungkung was still considered by the regional king’s the supreme ruler of Bali, he had little political power, and the structure of the many little kingdoms was more like a confederation at this stage. However, the Klungkung court continued to play a major role in government, diplomacy and the arts. Most of Bali’s nobility are descendants of this royal lineage. Along with the other kingdoms, the Dewa Agung fought the Dutch to the bitter end, leading a ceremonial “puptan” in 1908 after heavy bombardment of both Klungkung and Gelgelby the Dutch artillery. This was the final conquest for the Dutch, giving them control over all of Bali.

A Region of Contrasts

East Bali is very different to the lush plains and bustling towns of the south. A narrow coastal strip of coconut and banana plantations alternates with pockets of fertile rice fields, behind which sharp peaks tower, the foothills that lead back to the colossal peak of Mount Agung. Palm- fringed beaches look across a narrow strait to the island of Nusa penida, Nusa Lembongana and Nusa Ceningan  once a penal colony and still a major part of the Regency of Klungkung.

The town of Klungkungis bordered by the stony Unda River, with its great expanse of weirs that protect the surrounding villages at flood times. Further east the landscape is still scarred by the black lava streams of 1963’s eruption, which entirely cut the area of from the rest of Bali for quite some time. The pace of life is quite, and in the little coastal fishing villages and hillside communities barely accessible by road, life is little disturbed by the pace of the 20^th century.      

Place Of Interest

Kertha Gosa and Taman Gili,  the Royal courts of justice of Klungkung, are a reminder of the power and glory of this former kingdom These two stately pavilions in their lotus pond gardens at the centre of the town of  Klungkung, were built in the 18 th century, at which time they acted as the island’s highest court of law. Their fantastic ceiling murals in  the traditional “Wayang” style of painting depict the punishments in hell for wrong-doers, as well as the rewards heaven for those who are good and honest in their lifetime, a highly evocative view of the Balinese belief in “Kamapala” every action bears fruit, be it good or bad. Judgements were made according to traditional law by three Brahmana high priests. During Dutch colonial rule the courts were still held here, pronouncing judgements on cases concerning custom and traditional law which could not be settled at the village level. Meetings were also held during the full moon of every fourth month of the Balinese Calender, attended by the regional king’s throughout Bali, wherein the higt King of Klungkung gave his directives and decisions concerning the problems of the greater Kingdom of Bali. The hall of Kertha Gosa was also often used for audiences granted to guests and foreigners by the King.

A tall gateway behind Kerta Gosa once led into Bali’s most splendid palace, which was destroyed in the Dutch Bombardments of 1908 that resulted in the conquest of the island. A memorial to this terrible this terrible Puputan Battle that ended 600 years of glorious rule in Bali by the descendants of Majapahit, has been erected on the eastern side of regent’s office , across the road from Kertha Gosa. 

At the western side of the Kertha Gosa pavilions is Taman Gili which was previously the headquarters of the king’s guard. Restored during Dutch times, this pavilions is decorated in more recent “Wayang” paintings, by the best o the Kamasan school of Artists. The ceiling of this moated pavilion describes the Balinese horoscopes, as well as illustrating a number of folk tales from old literary classics.

Kamasan

A few kilometres to the south of Klungkung, past the town of Gelgel, lies the village of Kamasan,  the centre of traditional “Wayang” painting. This village is also famous for its gold and silver smiths who make hand beaten bowls and trays used in religious ceremony all over the island. 

Goa lawah

The road past Klungkung runs parallel to magnificent seascapes –black sand beaches pounded by turbulent swirling waters. Just 6 kilometres east of the town is the temple and cave Goa Lawah,  "The Bat cave”, where shrines cluster around the entrance to a cave which is said to extend all the way under ground to a small temple Pura Goa, in the Besakih complex, right on the slopes of mount Agung. This cave is said to be the dwelling of the mythological naga serpent, Basuki, who is honoured by a small shrine within the temple  

A round the mount of the cave cluster thousands of bats, their high-pitched squeaks filling the air , tiny quivering bodies packed together in an undulating mass. As with many strange natural phenomena, this cave and its temple are considered very holy by all Balinese, and groups of devotees come with offerings to complete their post-cremation “segara gunung” ceremonies for the soul of their deceased.         

Nusa Penida

Two thirds of the land in the Klungkung regency is on the island of Nusa Penida, Lembongan and ceningan. The largest of these, Nusa Penida once a penal colony, has been stripped of its original teak forests and jungle, resulting in a bareen, dry hilly terrain. Recent government agricultural projects have started a “greening”programme, providing “lontoro”., cashew and “gamal” trees to plaint. The people of Nusa are great cow breeders, and there are more than two cows for every family on the island. These sleek, well-fed animals, closely resembling dear, are packed onto large outrigger canoes and shipped over to Sanur where they are sold for local beef consumption and export.              

The islands of Nusa Penida and Lembongan were “discovered” by a group of travelling surfers nearly a decade ago, and the beach of Jungut Batu   has now become well known in surfing circles all over the world. Conditions here are also perfect for skin diving.

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